Tenuta Cocci Grifoni Le Torri Rosso Piceno Superior 2005
Italy, Le Marche, LCBO# 994863, $18.95, 13% ABV
by Anne Martin

It’s always a treat to taste a wine from anywhere in the world these days that is true to the place it’s grown and comprised solely from indigenous (native) grape varieties. The “Le Torri” from Cocci Grifoni is a great example of this. Made on an estate in Marche, which is located in north-eastern Italy close to Umbria and Tuscany, by a family that has stubbornly only made wine from indigenous grapes since the 1960’s and has been instrumental in having two new DOC’s awarded to the region as a result; it is a blend of 60% Montepulciano and 40% Sangiovese. As it is a Rosso Piceno , one of the major red wine DOC’s in the region, it is a bit unusual because the blend is normally weighted towards the Sangiovese grape. The choice to add a higher percentage of Montepulciano in the blend is another sign of the house’s dedication to producing high quality wines as these red grapes are considered to be the rising star of the region.

At first, when I tried this wine without food, it seemed a little restrained, but lovely soft cherry fruit soon immerged with a fine seam of minerality and a bit of wet cement (in a good way!) also coming through on the palate. Adding food to the mix really did the wine justice, and pasta with classic puttanesca sauce is a tricky pairing. The tomato- based sauce with capers, olives and anchovies can really kill a wine, but the Le Torri rose to the challenge taking on the acidity of the tomatoes, the piquant nature of the capers and the earthiness of the olives in stride, as well, as the sheer fishiness of the anchovies. The Sangiovese grape provides structure, acidity and elegance while the Montepulciano backs it up with powerful juicy fruit and adds weight – a perfect blend. What I love most about this wine is that it’s a restrained 13% alcohol that still delivers a punch. It’s terrifically refreshing and food-friendly. We need more of these wines on the shelves to combat the onslaught of overly- extracted and highly alcoholic reds that seem to have taken over the market these days.

Click here to find this wine at an LCBO near you.

Anne Martin is a Toronto-based sommelier, writer and wine consultant. Learn more about Anne, including her cellar and tasting services at www.annemartinwine.com.