Vol. 1, No. 8 | Toronto, Ontario | News & features from the good food revolution

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Back to Cheese School
by Andy Shay

Next week we are back to school and if you are interested in learning more about cheese there are quite a few programs that are about to begin. Lets tale a look.

The other day, I received an invitation from the Dairy Farmers of Canada to attend their booth at the Canadian National Exhibition. Honestly, how could I resist an opportunity to mix cheese, time with my son and one of the time honoured, end of summer rites, in Toronto?

The Dairy Farmers took a particularly large site inside the Direct Energy Pavilion to celebrate their 75th year of Canadian Dairy promotion and to accommodate a range of activities that include cheese sampling with cheesemakers, interactive use of the www.allyouneedischeese.ca website and entertaining games for kids, but especially to highlight a cooking stage with regular cooking demonstrations featuring chefs Glenn Sheridan, Jacob Sharkey Pearce and Ian Daly. The highlight in my eyes is the cheese education and tasting sessions lead by Anne-Marie Shubin of the Cheese Education Guild. This is the first time that I have met Anne-Marie, though many people have told me what a great teacher she is. And indeed her class is a treat; simple and straight forward, but loaded with information. The class covers topics like the new Canadian milk content rules, modified milk, cheese service, pairings with cheese, how to assemble a cheese tray or a cheese party, correct serving temperature, defects of cheese, how to taste cheese, actually tasting six cheeses and a host of other topics. The sessions are free. If you are at the CNE and have any interest in cheese, I highly recommend attending, a process that is aided by the fact that the class runs five times daily.

If you do attend and you like Anne-Marie, you may well want to look into the series of courses offered by the Cheese Education Guild. Anne-Marie is a product of and a teacher at the school founded by one of Ontario’s leading cheese mavens, Kathy Guidi. Early on, Kathy saw the need to educate people about cheeses and created the school just to do that. Five years later, there is a burgeoning cheese store scene in Toronto and ever more knowledgeable cheese servers and clientele, in part, due to the teachings of the Cheese Education Guild. The classes are set up as a series of three graduated level, eight week courses. Graduates are known to be extremely enthusiastic about cheese. The first course begins in mid September, look online for details.

If you are more casually interested in learning about cheese and are looking for a fun and delicious evening activity, then check out Julia Rogers, Cheese Culture Night School For Cheese Fans classes hosted at the Leslieville Cheese Market. Julia is super knowledgeable and super approachable about cheese. The stand-up sessions are casual and a great chance to get more familiar with special groupings of cheese.

If you are a total cheese head, you have to make your way to the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese associated with the University of Vermont. VIAC is arguably the continent’s most advanced and academically rigorous cheese program. Many of the courses relate to cheesemaking, but also affinage (cheese aging) and cheese judging. The program is designed for working people and courses are set up in two and three day intensive sessions. This is serious cheese, but I have not talked to anyone who has not loved it. While you are there, taste the amazing cheeses of Vermont – it is the only proof you will need that this is a super effective program!

If your cheese interest is just developing – time may give us more and interesting educational options. Here are four rumours that I have heard recently:

  1. Ruth Klahsen who is setting up a new cheese making plant for her Monforte Dairy is planning to have space for cheesemaking classes – possibly tied with the Stratford Chef's School;
     

  2. St. Lawrence College and three other colleges in eastern Ontario are looking into a sort of cooperative extension for cheesemakers – educating, aiding and supporting them.;
     

  3. George Brown College and University of Guelph may be working on a joint cheesemaking/education course; and
     

  4. The American Cheese Society may be working on a cheese certification testing program for cheese experts.

If any of these becomes reality it will be a real help to the cheese world.

Andy Shay is a Toronto-based cheese expert and consultant. Learn about Andy's tutored tastings at AndyShay.com

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