Vol. 1, No. 8 | Toronto, Ontario | News & features from the good food revolution

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Drake's David Chow Takes Cakes To Go
by Michelle Jobin

It’s been said that from crisis comes opportunity. Now, hold on and resist the urge to stick a fork in my eye for just a moment, and think about dessert. Really, really good desserts... and pastries… and scones… oh, the scones. And cakes as beautiful as they are delicious. All better now, right? If you’ve got even the slightest hint of a sweet tooth, bear with me.

Fans of The Drake Hotel and its multi-faceted menu are well familiar with the skills of Executive Pastry Chef David Chow. And it turns out that we have a bit of a lull in the economy to thank for them. On a recent visit to the Drake’s kitchen, I find out that food was not his first calling. David was originally schooled as an engineer. But, he was having a bit of trouble finding a job in his field, and started to get other ideas. “I always loved cooking. So while I was waiting for job interviews and such, I went to cooking school – pastries, specifically. And I loved it so much that I decided to stick with it.”

Of course, we’re super glad that he did. Because now we get to indulge in his sweet creations ‘round the clock at the Drake, plus those that have attended special events have been all too happy to dig in to his cakes that are too pretty to eat, but too delicious not to. If you’ve ever yearned to have one all to yourself, well, prepare for happy times! Response to David’s masterful cakes has been so great, now you can have your very own “Drake Cake” to go. Whether it’s for a birthday, anniversary, bridal shower, any special occasion (or just a special Friday night at home in front of the telly), you can order up some Drake style and good taste to take with you. David has crafted quite the spectrum of custom cakes: from one in the shape of a giant can of Labatt 50 to one in the shape of a toadstool mushroom. It’s really an opportunity for a customer’s imagination to run wild. But ask him about his personal favourites, and David will admit that they are always the simple, elegant cakes topped with flowers that have become his signature.

As I watch David frost just such an elegant cake - a four-layered pistachio butter cake with lavender and vanilla bean butter cream icing - I’m really not a bit surprised that he comes from an engineering background. Baking in general requires meticulous measuring – but his attention to detail in design and flavour goes way beyond precision to the artistic. David asks if I’m more of a “cake girl” or an “icing girl”, and I confess to generally being the latter. One taste of that lavender butter cream would confirm that for anyone. Flecked with vanilla bean, it was incredibly creamy with just the right subtle hint of sweetness and lavender. But the pistachio butter cake really does take the cake, and almost changes my allegiance. The classic white cake laden with pistachio paste and ground pistachios is beautifully moist. Fortunately, I can enjoy them together and don’t have to choose.

To order your very own custom “Drake Cake” by Executive Pastry Chef David Chow, visit thedrakehotel.ca/cakes.

Michelle Jobin is the host and producer of Toronto Dining and a Weather Specialist for Global News. She is especially fond of duck confit, dark chocolate ganache, and thunderstorms.

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