Vol. 1, No. 8 | Toronto, Ontario | News & features from the good food revolution

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Wine on the Rocks: What to Pour at the Cottage
by Anne Martin

At long last you are headed up to cottage country for some long awaited down time, and rather than facing the very limited wine selection in the Winnebago-sized LCBO in the nearest out port, you may wish to put together at least couple of cases before hand in order to cover all the bases – aperitifs, dock-side and deck lunches and a variety of dinner menus. Here’s what I suggest on a general level followed by a blow-by-blow wine record of my own Georgian Bay retreat this summer.

A general guide for stocking up the cottage:

Bring sparkling wine from a variety of regions – Cava from Spain, Prosecco from Italy, some New World sparklers for a bit of variety. Buy a bunch of bottles that aren't too pricy: this is the cottage and you may have a crowd, but keep a bottle of Champers for a more intimate evening.

Also essential is a good selection of quaffable dry white wines (also from a variety of regions)-for spritzers , serving with salad-based lunches and for aperitif wine. Try grapes like (dare I say it) Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling Chablis/Macon whites and, my current personal favourite daytime white: Gruner Veltliner from Austria.

Rosé is the most versatile wine for summer. Look for pink wines from Southern France, Rhone Valley, Ontario, California, Argentina, Spain – the world’s your oyster with this category and, don’t worry, they are all dry these days.

Try lighter reds for more restrained dishes and pasta like Chianti, Pinot Noir, Gamay, crianza Rioja, Barbera, and keep the bigger reds for steaks, burgers and other BBQ nights:  New World Cabernet, Spanish reds, Southern France, Rhone, Aussie Shiraz, BC, Argentinean Malbec, and so on.

And of course keep a few interesting reds for gourmet nights – treasures from your cellar that you’ve been holding on to for far too long, older vintages, more subtle and delicate wines.

Wine is my life, but even sommeliers like to drink other things, once and a while, so my bar will also include:

  • Gin – because nothing says “summer” like a good old G & T (try it the way the English like it with a lemon wedge for garnish);
  • Beer… of course; and
  • Bourbon for those late night heart to heart chats with old friends

Finally do remember to bring or buy a few good wine glasses. They don’t have to be the best, but if you are going to stock in all this great wine you might as well have something nice to drink it in. (I buy the large ones from Ikea and then I’m not upset when they break.)

Here's what I drank on my recent cottage holiday:

Martin’s Island 2009 Menus and Wine Pairings:

(Full disclosure: my husband, Tim Ayiotis, is a professional chef)

1st night: (after a marathon day of shopping, packing, hauling and unpacking)
Aperitif: white wine spritzers (Citra Pinot Grigio & soda)
Dinner: Spaghetti Bolognaise paired with Toscolo Chianti Classico 2006, Italy

2nd night: (with foodie friends and guests Val and Adrian)
Aperitif: Cava Pere Ventura Brut, Spain served with stuffed baby artichoke hearts (fresh herbs, olive oil, bread crumbs) and a roasted garlic rouille
Dinner: Roasted local organic chicken with farm grown seasonal vegetables (beets, green beans and potatoes) paired with Norman Hardie Chardonnay 2005, Ontario
Dessert: A selection of Canadian artisanal cheeses from Nancy’s Cheese paired with Weingut Hans Lang Riesling Spatlese 1992, Germany

3rd night: (with Val and Adrian again- it was their night to cook, but Tim, threw in the appetizer)
Aperitif: Cordorniu Pinot Noir Brut Cava, Spain
Appetizer: Squab cooked over an open flame with a very (10 feet from the fire pit) local raspberry and demi galce sauce served with Abadia Returna Rivola 2002, Spain
Main: Adrian’s Asian-style pork ribs paired with Henry of Pelham Rose 2006, Niagara and Peninsula Ridge Beal Vineyard Rose 2006, Niagara

4th night: (with foodie fishatarian guest Anne Sportun and son Sean)
Aperitif: Gin and tonics
Dinner: Roasted Monkfish on the bone with capers and rouille with Domaine des Carteresses Tavel 2008, Rhône Valley, France

5th night: (with Anne and Sean again)
Aperitif: Stratus Riesling 2006, Niagara
Dinner: Shrimp and Squid pasta with an olive oil sauce paired with Bouchard Pere & Fils Petite Chablis 2007, Burgundy, France

6th night: (with John and Jeff foodies and impressively prepared guests)
Aperitif: Cave Spring Reserve Riesling 2007, Niagara
Dinner: BBQ rib eye steaks with seasonal local vegetables paired with Chakana Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Chile followed by Salinas Monastrell 2006, Spain

7th night (John and Jeff plus friends Rosie and Monica)
Aperitif: Pomegranate Kir Royales – sparkling wine and pomegranate juice (made from Jackson–Triggs Cuve Close 2007, Niagara
Dinner: (John and Jeff’s creation) Korean-style marinated flank steaks with roasted vegetable couscous paired with Clos du Bois Rosé, California (a very warm night that called for a rose rather than a red)
Nightcap: Ontanon Crianza Rioja 2005, Spain

8th night: (with Rosie and Monica plus Joanna and Greg- aka “The Good Times Gang”)
Aperitif: Jo’s famous Guava juice, gin and tonic with fresh mint cocktails
Dinner: Tim’s Greek night – BBQed pork kebobs, lamb loin, with hummus, babaganoush, olives, tataziki and all the trimmings paired with Ontanon Crianza Rioja 2005, Spain and Quinto do Crasto 2006, Portugal

Anne Martin is a Toronto-based sommelier, writer and wine consultant. Learn more about Anne, including her cellar and tasting services at www.annemartinwine.com.

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