Wine That Matches Spicy Food
by Anne Martin

Sometimes it’s great just to order in and chow down on some spicy comfort food with south-of-the-border flavours. But the trick is deciding what to do about the wine. You can go for the easy option and choose beer, or you can remain true to the vine and try to find a straightforward, inexpensive wine that jumps out of the glass at the chance to pair with spicy fare.

Surprisingly, chilli doesn’t alter the taste of wine, but it does numb and even slightly burn taste buds, resulting in a compromised palate and tasting capacity. So it’s pointless to pull out a fine, aged wine to drink with chilli-laden food – the wine needs to be quite bold and expressive to hold its own. Young, fruity whites served cold refresh and cool the palate. Other spices are less of a problem with wine, but stay away from full-bodied reds with mouth-drying tannins. They create an impression of heat and leave a nasty, bitter aftertaste in your mouth. A light, fruity red with soft tannins and some acidity is a better choice. Rosés can also make excellent companions to hot dishes – after all they fall somewhere between a red and a white and have lots of fruit, very low tannin and good acidity. One of my favourite matches with spicy fare is sparkling wine, but again, go for the simpler, fruitier versions. There is no point in wasting expensive Champagne – its nuances will be lost amidst the bold flavours. As well as being a good match, bubbles have the added effect of lifting and refreshing your palate. Some white grape varietals that I go to in spicy situations are Riesling, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Muscat, Gruner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc, Semillon and some New World Sauvignon Blanc. For reds, I tend to stick to Barbera, Pinot Noir (but it can’t be too delicate or too tannic), Gamay (both New World and Beaujolais), Tempranillo, the odd fruity Sangiovese and Sicilian reds (known for their medium-bodied spicy character). Rosés are more versatile, and any fruit-driven version from Canada, the south of France, Spain, Australia or California would work well.

So, back to that takeout burrito night chez moi a couple of weeks ago. Burrito Boyz’ burritos have long been a guilty pleasure of mine, and when they opened down the street from me this summer, I was thrilled. One of my little missions became finding the perfect wine to go with their halibut burritos (the best thing they do as far as I’m concerned). The halibut is battered, so it needs some acidity to cut the fat. Then there are all the other ingredients to consider: beans, rice, cheese, salsa, guacamole, burrito sauce and sour cream, not to mention the jalapenos and their homemade XXX hot sauce. A wine of great verve, with jump-out-of-the-glass citrus fruit was called for. I settled on a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc because at some point in my distant past it was my go-to wine for fish and chips. Sadly, my love affair with NZ Sauvignon Blancs has waned in recent years, due to their predictable Hawaiian punch–like fruit and squeaky-clean profile. They often taste like a white wine cocktail. But remember, with this food pairing, we are looking for a fruity, straightforward and uncomplicated wine. It worked well except for one small hitch. In my enthusiasm to spice up the meal, I had gone for the medium XXX hot sauce, which obliterated the fruit. Because the wine was somewhat dry, it just couldn’t match the chilli. A fruitier Riesling would have worked better; however, if I had stuck with the milder hot sauce, the SB would have been delicious. My husband had the steak burrito with a good Tavel from the Rhone Valley. It stood up to the meat and didn’t run from the chilli. A Barbera wouldn’t have been amiss here either. The main thing is to keep in mind the “rules” outlined above, but be adventurous. Put some spice in your wine life – it’ll go well with the food.

Anne’s Picks for a Burrito Night In:

1. Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Marlborough, New Zealand $16.95 (LCBO# 293043)
    
2. Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Marlborough, New Zealand $15.95 (LCBO# 426601)
    
3. Vineland Estates Dry Riesling 2007, Niagara, Ontario $13.95 (LCBO# 167551)
    
4. Domaine des Carteresses Tavel 2008, Rhone Valley, France $16.95 (LCBO# 739474)
    
5. Bersano Costalunga Barbera d’Asti 2006, Piedmont, Italy $13.15 (LCBO# 348680)

Anne Martin is a Toronto-based sommelier, writer and wine consultant. Learn more about Anne, including her cellar and tasting services at www.annemartinwine.com.